Eagle Peak- Falcon's Rib, Crazy Pony 95, The Shining Slab

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October 31, 2026

With a cloudy and cool day in the forecast, David and I headed out to Eagle Peak for a day of chill sport climbing. 

Routes climbed

Name	Grade (YDS)	# Pitches	Quality (1-5)	Type
Falcon's Rib	5.11d	5	4	sport
Crazy Pony 95 (linkup of 95 Degrees in the Shade pitch 1, Pony Express pitch 3, Crazy Horse pitch 3)	5.12a	3	4	sport
The Shining Slab	5.11b	4	4	sport

Gear

- 60m rope

- 15 draws

Total Stats

4.7 miles

2,000 ft gain/loss

Eagle Peak Main Wall approach

We parked at Three Sisters Trailhead (32.98528, -116.67887), then took the Eagle Peak Trail 1.7 miles west to the climber's trail turnoff (32.98350, -116.70345) where we turned left (south) onto a faint trail which ascended a short distance to a saddle and then descended southwest to the obvious wall. 

Falcon's Rib (5.11d, 5 pitches)

This route was located on the far left side of the main wall, requiring some bushwhacking through tall grass. We descended to the lowest part of the main wall, then continued west and scrambled uphill for about 200 ft of distance before spotting the first pitch rib. 

Pitch 1 (5.10a, 60 ft)

David led up a broad rib and ended at the first set of bolted anchors below a second rib.

Pitch 2 (5.11c, 70 ft)

I launched up the left side of a small overlap and then up the crimpy/slabby broad rib above. The movement was excellent. All was going well until near the end when I broke a left sidepull and took a small whip. I repeated the move with a slightly smaller sidepull, mantled on top of the rib, and walked over to the rightmost of two bolted anchors.

looking down pitch 2

Pitch 3 (5.11a, 70 ft)

Another obvious arete loomed above. A combination of bear hugging and slab moves were necessary to climb it. The pitch finished on a small ledge left of an alcove. 

Pitch 4 (5.11d, 60 ft)

A tricky move off the deck brought me to a rounded ledge below the crux. A line of bolts headed up and slightly right across a smooth section of white rock. I executed the crux here, making a reachy move right, then continued up the bolt line. This pitch was super short and I linked it into the following one.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 60 ft)

There were two bolt lines traversing right across blocks, both of them easy. I followed the left one. There were several bolted anchors to belay from.

Crazy Pony 95 (5.12a, 3 pitches)

This was a mix-and-match of several other routes, linking pitch 1 of 95 Degrees in the Shade, pitch 2 of Pony Express, and pitch 3 of Crazy Horse. We scrambled up to the base of the Left Wall, just below  huge alcove to a bolted belay.

Pitch 1 (5.12a, 70 ft)

I started up a non-strenuous but funky face for 3 bolts, then veered left into a steep section of the alcove after clipping a 4th bolt. 3 more bolts left left and over the alcove with some strenuous and tricky moves. As soon as I had pulled through the overhanging section, I looked right to see a bolted anchor and belayed there.

David following pitch 1

Pitch 2 (5.12a, 80 ft)

A diagonal line of pods headed out right. David climbed through these greasy features and continued diagonaling up and right along the bolt line. Eventually the route jogged straight up at a right-facing crack, climbing up this crack to a flake undercling out left before arriving at a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.11a, 100 ft)

I climbed up a crimpy face for a few bolts before arriving on a cool exposed white arete. I followed this up to a bolted anchor.

The Shining Slab (5.11b, 4 pitches)

From afar, this was a very striking route, climbing a clean panel of rock extending up most of the main wall. This route started in the middle of the Main Wall from a large detached pillar with belay bolts just above it. We scrambled up the right side of this pillar with some easy chimney moves. The Shining Slab took the rightmost of two bolt lines starting at this pillar.

Pitch 1 (5.10c, 80 ft)

I launched off the pillar and traversed up and right, arriving below a steeper roof. Good holds led up to this roof and then a crack feature, which I followed until it petered out. A few slippery slab moves brought me to the anchor.

looking down pitch 1

Pitch 2 (5.11b, 80 ft)

This could be summarized by cool techy moves and some toe pain. We ascended excellent crimpy and slabby rock past a small rooflet and upward to a spot where the slab angle started kicking back.

Pitch 3 (5.10b, 70 ft)

We continued up the face with easier and lower angle moves. This could easily be combined with the previous pitch.

looking down pitch 3

Pitch 4 (5.10c/d, 120 ft)

This was a fun and exciting finish. David led up through a corner which could be surmounted with laybacking straight up or slab moves on its left side, then continued to an arete with some semi-contrived climbing slightly left. After pulling onto the arete, there was a small roof out right with a bouldery move. A potential ledge fall was possible it one messed up this move. Easy ground after the roof continued to a bolted anchor in an alcove.