Peaks For Freaks: Monster Tower, Washer Woman

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October 31, 2024
Often seen but rarely climbed, Monster Tower and Washer Woman are two large desert towers located deep within Canyonlands National Park. There is no straightforward way of getting there, with most climbers approaching the towers via White Rim Rd which requires a permit and several hours on a bumpy 4WD road. Since I didn't have 4WD, I mapped an approach from the paved road on the upper rim requiring 9 miles of hiking (one way) to reach the towers.

Routes climbed:

Name	Grade	# Pitches	Quality (1-5)	Type
North Ridge of Monster Tower	5.11	5	3.5	trad
In Search of Suds	5.10+	6	4.5	trad

Peaks/Towers climbed

Peak	Elevation	Topographic Prominence	Summit Coordinates (lat/lon)
Monster Tower	5,881 ft	473 ft	38.39019, -109.83814
Washer Woman	5,826ft	372 ft	38.38960, -109.83745

Gear

- 70m rope

- cams: double 0.2-3, single 4, triple 0.5

- small to medium nuts

- 12 alpine draws

Total Stats

19 miles

4,000 ft gain/loss

Tom and I started from the rim at 4:30am, hiking 2 miles down the Gooseberry Trail until it intersected White Rim Rd. The upper half of Gooseberry was steep but relatively easy to follow, and the lower half was a chill walk through a wash. Once on White Rim Rd, it was 7 miles of mindless plodding in the dark along a mostly flat road.

An amazing sunrise greeted us as both towers came into view.

We left the road where it made a turn just south of the towers (approx. 38.38117, -109.83554), walking up a small ridge and following a use-trail with plenty of cairns. A short class 3 scramble brought us to the saddle between the towers. We cached our stuff here, geared up for Monster Tower, and scrambled 100 ft south to the start of the North Ridge.

North Ridge of Monster Tower (5.11, 5 pitches)

The following pitch descriptions (in blue) are taken directly from Mountain Project, with my remarks below each one.

Pitch 1 (5.9)

Easy left facing dihedral leads to a ledge. Climb around a small amount of looseness and up a small and short right facing dihedral. The belay is here, right below a curving crack that will appear somewhat wide.

loose gunky climbing that was more of an approach pitch than anything

Pitch 2 (5.10+)

Climb the curving crack above the anchor. After reaching a ledge, clip a long sling to the fixed gear and ascend the low angle wide crack to a big ledge on a pedestal. (Or belay below the low angle wide crack and separate that pitch.)

The initial crack was fun fists and cupped hands. The wide crack was protectable with very large gear that we didn't have, but it was easy (5.6ish) and I just ran it out.

Tom ascending the easy wide crack

great views of Washer Woman

Pitch 3 (5.11)

Move slightly left to the obvious thin crack which is a shallow right facing dihedral. Climb the thinner crack and then offwidth to a large belay ledge. A great rest appears after the thin climbing. There are smaller gear placements to be found in the offwidth sections.

Amazing ringlocks and liebacking in the obvious thin crack. Getting gear in was pumpy, so I would recommend just placing and gunning it.

starting up the thin crack

Pitch 4 (5.8)

Climb blocky ledges and then a chimney. Finish on a ledge with a fixed anchor. Supposedly, another option is to climb poor rock through ledges and another chimney to the right. Either way, this pitch has the most loose climbing on the tower.

More junky climbing. I was careful not to knock rocks down.

looking down pitch 4

Pitch 5 (5.11)

Begin off a very large ledge. A variety of climbing leads up, out a bulge, slightly right and then traverses left again to a good ledge. Next, either move left to a free variation or use the bolt ladder above the ledge. We aided the bolt ladder which led back to face climbing free moves to a ledge right below the summit cap rock with an anchor.

Hard for the grade, but safe and fun. Crimpy and balancy moves await.

looking down the awesome steepness of pitch 5

view from the summit of Monster Tower

Descent

We rapped the route straight down with a single 70m.

After rapping, we moved back over to the saddle between Monster Tower and Washer Woman to start the next route.

In Search of Suds (5.10+, 6 pitches)

Pitch 1 (5.10, 85 ft)

Scramble to the saddle and begin climbing off the left side of the ridge in a steep fist crack with difficult moves right off the deck. Continue up and pass an offwidth section and belay at a bolt anchor with slings. You should be able to see daylight through a small eye piercing the tower above. Beware of loose rock on this pitch.

Tom was easily able to link pitches 1 and 2 with our 70m rope. These basically followed a fun and steep corner/chimney system up and then left. The moves were great and I was surprised at the relative lack of wide climbing required.

looking up from the base of Washer Woman

Pitch 2 (5.10, 90 ft)

Climb up to an airy stance near the Eye and sling a chockstone for pro before moving into the crack left of the eye. Make some 5.9 moves and continue up to easier climbing in the crack above. Pass a squeeze chimney through a bulge and make scary moves on sandy sloping holds out of the chimney and onto the belay ledge. Belay at 1 bolt/2 angle anchor with slings below a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.10+, 70 ft)

From the comfortable belay ledge move directly right and into a good hand/fist crack with a roof above. Power through the roof with several 5.10 moves and make a difficult move up and right above the roof (5.10+, TCU). Continue to the ridge on fun 5.9 crack climbing. Arrange a gear belay on the ridge.

Very fun pitch. The hand crack was not very difficult and also felt like wild hero climbing over the roof.

Pitch 4 (5.6, 70 ft)

Traverse along the ridge towards the summit and belay where it steepens. This can be combined with the next pitch.

We easily linked pitches 4 and 5. Follow the obvious ridge towards the summit.

traversing along the ridge

Pitch 5 (5.9, 20 ft)

Face climb a short steep section with an old pin, Belay at bolt/angle/star drive anchor on large ledge below final headwall.

Pitch 6 (5.10+, 80 ft)

Face climb up past some loose rotten bands (5.9R) to a beautiful black varnished face with four drilled pitons. Face climb on small holds up and past the bolts to a mind blowing summit and belay at bolt anchor.

Sporty pitch. Lots of crimps that were not too bad. The pitons were not great, but there were a lot of them to clip.