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May 3, 2026
Hydra is an adventure-style sport route ascending the center of Universal Wall in Kyle Canyon. It features a mix of burly overhangs and techy slab/face moves on limestone. Due to the relative lack of ascents, some of the rock was still cleaning up but it was solid on all terrain harder than 5.9. Great views of Mummy Mountain and upper Kyle Canyon were had from the entire ascent as well.
Routes climbed:
| Name | Grade (YDS) | # Pitches | Quality (1-5) | Type |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hydra | 5.12 | 7 | 3.5 | sport |
Gear
- 60m rope
- tagline (optional, for hauling)
- cams: single 0.5 for pitch 2 (optional)
- 10 quickdraws, 3 alpine draws
Total Stats
3.5 miles
1,700 ft gain/loss
Approach
We started from Echo Trailhead, walking up the road for 0.6 mi to Mary Jane Falls Trailhead, then splitting off west on a faint trail which headed up the main drainage of the prominent bowl to the west containing Universal Wall, until reaching the base of the wall. Hydra started just left of the main water-streaked drainage that split the wall.
Approximate line of Hydra
The following pitch descriptions (in blue) are taken directly from Mountain Project, with my remarks below each one.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 75 ft)
Start in the center of the wall at the steep smooth slab, climb the slab following old bolts through a balancy crux to an anchor, clip the anchor and continue onto the ledge, belay on the left of two anchors. Originally 10b but seems harder. Move the belay onto the big ledge
Pitch 1 in its entirety was a smooth polished slab with delicate slab and face moves, warming up the toes and calves but not the upper body. Bolts were spaced very tightly, with about 3 ft between bolts protecting the crux move. The rock was decently solid but with a some pebbles and grit scattered here and there which had rained down from the wall above. The pitch ended at a sloping but not fully hanging belay just a few feet below a huge ledge. I belayed Andrew up and then moved the belay about 10 ft onto the ledge.
looking up pitch 1
Pitch 2 (5.10d, 120 ft)
To the left of an obvious bolt line is a couple bolts leading into a flake, climb the first few bolts moving into the big flake, cop a rest here and place a 0.5 or 0.75 cam and continue past two more bolts to an undercling flake, move out left following the flake and more bolts to a series of anchors on a ledge, belay at the left anchor under a steep flake and bulge.
This one was pretty fun and warmed up the upper body. The first bolt was too low and completely useless, and Andrew didn't even clip it as he moved past. He placed 0.5 cam in the flake but never touched the 0.75.
Pitch 3 (5.12, 90 ft)
Step off the belay and climb the steep flake to a good stance clip a bolt, and make strenuous exposed moves out right to huge flakes (the next few bolts are have fixed draws), shake out and launch into a steep technical crux to good holds, continue up the bulging wall through multiple short crux’s to good holds that lead into a scoop, belay at a two bolt anchor in the scoop. Originally 5.12a but seems much harder (12b or 12b/c)
The endurance crux. A few initial moves up a lightly overhanging flake brought me to a bolt and then several permadraws out right and then straight up. Several big strenuous moves on overhung jugs, slopers, and general limestone funk brought me up to an alcove with a semi-hanging belay and a great view of the Universal Wall amphitheater.
Pitch 4 (5.10, 50 ft)
An interesting short pitch. Move left off the belay onto the blocky arete, climb this following 2 bolts straight up and then traverse right to a ledge following two more bolts, clip an anchor and move rightwards to belay off another anchor below a blue corner. (Note this pitch has not-so-great rock quality, climb carefully)
Fun climbing on semi-chossy rock that appears to have cleaned up a bit more recently. Although the rock was overhung, there was zero pump to be had with the proper technique. This could be linked with the previous pitch if one was still feeling froggy.
Pitch 5 (5.11, 135 ft)
A long pitch that could be split into two. Climb up the blue corner above following a line of bolts, eventually step right and make technical moves out right onto an exposed face, continue following bolts up the white wall above until reaching an anchor. Either belay here or continue up and left on a long chossy ramp clipping one old bolt and eventually finding an anchor way out left on a good ledge. A thoughtful pitch. Originally rated 5.11- but seems a fair bit harder.
The first half of this was very obvious, starting up the corner above following closely spaced bolts on great rock. Upon reaching the first anchor, there were no more bolts be seen. I checked out a few options, but eventually ended up traversing left on a gradually ascending ramp on less-than-desirable rock, reaching an old 2-bolt anchor after about 30 ft, then heading further up the junky ramp for another 30 ft to a second anchor with newer bolts. This marked the end of the pitch. A prominent 15 ft pillar that was part of the next pitch was visible 20 ft further left.
Andrew following pitch 5
Pitch 6 (5.12b, 100 ft)
A great pitch with a short but cryptic crux. Move left off the belay and clip a piton with a fixed draw, move left into the corner system and climb it clipping one bolt, mantle onto the top of the pillar and get stoked about the attractive wall above. Climb straight up the technical exposed wall fairly easily at first to an okay stance, pick your poison and execute a short but very thin crux that leads to better holds, continue up the wall above to a ledge with an anchor. (10 bolts)
A (possibly new) bolt and an old piton with a permadraw led to some cool moves up a 15 ft pillar, then up a vertical wall with great rock and progressively thinner holds. The bolts here were safely spaced, but in a way that it would be difficult to simply pull through without doing the crux moves. The crux was brief and quickly followed by welcome jugs.
starting up pitch 6
Pitch 7 (5.10d, 115 ft)
A good pitch to end the route on. Climb the easy slab above the anchor into a right facing corner, stem up the corner until the angle eventually eases off, continue up the easy wall above to an anchor situated just below the huge terrace. (10 bolts)
Fun wandery pitch up a stemming corner and then several progressively easier overlaps to a giant tree-covered ledge. The rock quality was decent on the first half but rapidly deteriorated on the second easier half.
looking up pitch 7
finishing up pitch 7
Mummy Mountain and snow shower
Descent
We had two options of walking off or rappelling. Others had recommended against rappelling, citing the potential to dislodge loose rocks while pulling ropes as well as the overhanging nature of the wall making it difficult to swing over to rap anchors. We decided to walk off, with the entire process taking about an hour from the top of pitch 7 back to Echo Trailhead.
From the top of pitch 7, we headed climber's right about 150 ft to a small talus funnel leading up to a low 5th class rock band just right of the center drainage of the wall. We kept our climbing shoes on for this, but it probably wasn't necessary. About 200 ft of 4th to low 5th class climbing brought us to the top of this band.
low 5th rock band seen from the top of pitch 7
From the top of the band, we contoured south along the hillside, dodging compacted snowpatches and staying generally between the elevations of 9,000-9,300 ft. We eventually reached a prominent ridge jutting north to spot elevation 2757m, then descended east from there on a series of gradually more-defined use trails, eventually hitting an actual trail which paralleled Kyle Canyon Rd. We turned left and followed this trail for a few minutes back to Echo Trailhead.
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